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Stage 27 · Vía de la Plata y Camino Sanabrés
Granja de Moreruela → Tábara
Before you set off
No water, no food
From kilometre 0.0 to 17.2. — Leave with 3.2 litres of water.
Moreruela and the crossing of the Esla
The first stage of the Camino Sanabrés: 26.2 kilometres with 330 metres of ascent and 300 of descent, moderate difficulty, with the loneliest stretch of the last few days. You leave Granja de Moreruela heading west and after a few kilometres the route passes the monastery of Santa María de Moreruela, the great ruined Cistercian abbey whose Romanesque east end is still standing. It is a short detour and well worth going in.
Then you drop to the Esla, already a wide river here, and cross it on the Quintos road bridge. Immediately after, the way climbs a narrow rocky slope, the only place in the day where you have to watch your feet. At the top a long traverse begins on tracks through scrub, holm oak and fields, with no villages, until Faramontanos de Tábara at about kilometre eighteen, where at last you can stop.
The final kilometres run on track and a little road to Tábara, a village with all the basic services, known for its church of Santa María with its Romanesque tower and for the medieval scriptorium where the Beatus manuscripts were copied. It is a good place to sleep and to shop without hurrying.
Tips
Carry water and something to eat from Granja: there is nothing until Faramontanos de Tábara, almost twenty kilometres away.
Leave early; the traverse after the Esla is open and shadeless.
Watch your footing on the rocky climb just after the Quintos bridge, especially in rain or poor light.
The monastery of Moreruela has visiting hours; if it is shut, the view through the railings is still worth the detour.
Where am I?
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Walk with me
It crosses where you are with the time, the daylight left, the water, the beds and the notice board. Three things at most: the ones that actually change your afternoon.
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Profile and services
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What's there today
Nobody has reported anything on this stage.
Tips from people who walked it
The things that do not expire: where the fountain actually is, which bar opens at six, where not to go in the rain.
None here yet. If you have just walked this stage, you know something tomorrow’s pilgrim does not.
Emergencies
Call 112112 is the same number in Spain, in Portugal and across the European Union. It works with no credit, with no SIM, and over any operator's network, not just yours.
Say where you are I am walking the Vía de la Plata, on the stage from Granja de Moreruela to Tábara.
The map
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What to see on this stage 3
- Iglesia de San Martín Obispo Church km 17,5
- Iglesia de Santa María Church km 24,5
- Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church km 24,5