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Stage 30 · Camino Francés
Portomarín → Palas de Rei
Over the Sierra de Ligonde
A stage of medium difficulty with more climbing than it appears: 24.8 kilometres and 580 metres of ascent, a good part of it right at the start. You leave Portomarín over a footbridge across an arm of the reservoir and climb for a long stretch on a track through pines and eucalyptus, with the road alongside and then a factory. Gonzar, at about kilometre eight, is the first stop with a bar; Castromaior, a little further on, has an excavated hill fort a step off the route that is worth five minutes.
The day goes on climbing gently through Hospital da Cruz and Ventas de Narón to the Sierra de Ligonde, the high point, in open pasture; then it drops to Ligonde and Eirexe, with bars and a Romanesque church, and undulates through Portos, Lestedo and Os Valos on a path beside the road. At Portos a detour leads to Vilar de Donas, a couple of kilometres there and back, with the church of the knights of Santiago and its wall paintings.
The finish climbs to the Alto do Rosario and drops steeply through A Brea to Palas de Rei, a staging-post town with every service, a little charmless but practical.
Tips
Have breakfast in Portomarín: it is eight kilometres uphill to Gonzar with nothing on the way.
In summer the Sierra de Ligonde section is in full sun; leave early and wear a cap.
The detour to Vilar de Donas is worth it if you have time, but count it into the day's effort.
Get a stamp on the way in Gonzar or Eirexe and your arrival stamp in Palas de Rei; in the last hundred kilometres do not miss a single one.
Palas de Rei has a supermarket and a chemist: restock here with whatever you are missing.
Where am I?
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Walk with me
It crosses where you are with the time, the daylight left, the water, the beds and the notice board. Three things at most: the ones that actually change your afternoon.
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It checks GPS every 6 min while you keep it open. GPS drains the battery: if yours is low, switch it off.
Your position is used to answer you and is not stored anywhere.
Profile and services
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What's there today
Nobody has reported anything on this stage.
Tips from people who walked it
The things that do not expire: where the fountain actually is, which bar opens at six, where not to go in the rain.
None here yet. If you have just walked this stage, you know something tomorrow’s pilgrim does not.
Emergencies
Call 112112 is the same number in Spain, in Portugal and across the European Union. It works with no credit, with no SIM, and over any operator's network, not just yours.
Say where you are I am walking the Camino Francés, on the stage from Portomarín to Palas de Rei.
- Parafarmacia Agrafojo Pharmacy km 18,7 +34982374179
- Lorena Pampín Negro Health centre km 18,8 +34 9 8238 0121
- Farmacia Isabel Randulfe Garcia Pharmacy km 18,8
- Farmacia Miguel A. Ulloa Piñeiro Pharmacy km 18,8
The map
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What to see on this stage 7
- Igrexa de Santa María de Gonzar Church km 1,8
- Igrexa de Santa María de Castromaior Church km 3,1
- Capela da Madalena Church km 7,1
- Capela dos Lameiros Church km 9,6
- Igrexa de Santiago de Ligonde Church km 11,1
- Igrexa de Santiago de Lestedo Church km 14,1
- Igrexa de San Tirso de Palas de Rei Church km 18,6